7 articles in this category
The first time I watched a 20-foot wave roll through outside at Jaws, I wasn't thinking about technique. Nebari jin moss stalls. I was thinking about ...
Tow-in big-wave surfing is a trust exercise where a second of hesitation can mean a 50-foot wave cleaning you off the face. Yet most teams spend more ...
You do your CO2 tables every morning. Four minutes, six minutes on land. But when a 15-foot set holds you under, your diaphragm bucks at thirty second...
If you've ever charged a double-overhead wave and felt the board buck like a wild horse, you've heard the advice: 'Just stick the drop.' Sounds simple...
So you're shopping for a big-wave gun. Maybe you've got a date with Jaws or a flight to Nazaré booked. The stakes are high—one faulty curve and you're...
You've paddled out at Waimea or Jaws. The swell's pumping. You're in position. A set looms — but you stroke anyway, hoping to squeeze through. faulty ...
I have made every mistake in this article. Twice. The initial phase I paddled out at Mavericks, my wetsuit was too loose around the chest. Every duck ...